Brassiere



Nov. 18, 1969 c. M. SACHS 3,478,747

' BRASSIERE Original Fi led May 29, 1967 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR CHARLE5 M 5210/15 ATT EY Nov. 18, 1969 Original Filed May 29., we?

C;- M. SACHS BRASSIERE 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR CHARLES M 5407/5 ATTO:"gv

United States Patent 3,478,747 BRASSIERE Charles M. Sachs, Teaneck,N.J., assignor to International Playtex Corporation, a corporation ofDelaware Original application May 29, 1967, Ser. No. 642,035, now

Patent No. 3,381,689. Divided and this application May 3, 1968, Ser. No.726,280

Int. Cl. A41c 3/00 U.S. Cl. 128-483 3 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSUREA brassiere that accommodates to chest cavity expansion and contractingparticularly with respect to the area of the body just below thebreasts. It utilizes a substantially non-stretch, triangular-shaped,mesh-like piece of fabric on-the-bias so that when the brassiereexperiences girthwise stress, a biasing stretch within said triangularfabric is produced in the girthwise drection which permits the brassiereto accommodate to chest cavity expansion and contraction and maintain itin proper position on the body during use.

This application is a division of my co-pending application Ser. No.642,035, filed May 29, 1967, now U.S. Letters Patent No. 3,381,689.

This invention is a brassiere designed and constructed to expand withthe chest when the wearer breathes and moves about, and yet minimizeupward and downward movement from its proper position on the body.

A brassiere must not only support and shape the breasts but it must alsoaccommodate to the constantly expanding and contracting of the wearerschest as she breathes, moves her arms and indulges in other bodymotions. Each change in chest size and shape requires an accommodatingchange in the brassiere size and shape, particularly with respect to thearea of the body just below the breasts. The more nearly perfectly thebrassiere accommodates to changes in size and shape of the wearerschest, the better the brassiere.

When the wearers chest expands or contracts, which occurs during normalbreathing and other normal body movements, the brassiere merely tends tomove up or down the chest wall in its efiort to accommodate to chestexpansion or contraction; but when chest expansion or contraction isexcessive, the brassiere actually slides upwardly or downwardly. It isdesirable for comfort and control purposes, that the amount of upwardand downward brassiere movement is minimized; and when the wearers chestreturns to its relaxed size and shape, that the brassiere returns to itsproper position on the body.

It is difiicult to achieve brassiere accommodation particularly aroundthe lower half of the periphery of the breasts. In this area of thebody, if the brassiere moves up and out it can ride off the chest walland up onto the protuberance of the breast, causing discomfort and afeeling of insecurity; or if it moves down the chest wall, it flattensthe breasts, again causing discomfort and also loss of desired breastseparation and shaping. The upward or downward movement problem can, ofcourse, be solved by providing a very tight underbust band. That,however, merely substitutes one undesirable feature for another.

A brassiere constructed in accordance with my invention surprisinglyaccommodates to changes in chest size and shape as the wearer breathesand moves about, thus alleviating undesirable upward and downwardmovements of the brassiere from its proper position, yet adequatelysupports and shapes the breasts.

In a preferred embodiment of my invention, a brassiere is provided witha stretchable underbust band extending across under the cups, a pair oftapes secured to the inner 3,478,747 Patented Nov. 18, 1969 edges of thecups, so as to form upper branches above the center of the brassiere andlower branches below it that extend to the underbust band, and atriangular piece of mesh-like fabric positioned in the space between thelower branches of the tapes and the underbust band. The triangular pieceof fabric has a group of parallel strands extending in one direction anda group of parallel strands extending in a direction substantiallyperpendicular to the first group of parallel strands. I secure thetriangular piece of fabric to the lower branches of said tapes and theunderbust band so that each group of parallel strands is at an angle tothe horizontal plane of the underbust band. I have found it preferableto make the angle between any one group of parallel strands and thehorizontal plane of the underbust band between 20 to 70 degrees.

Proceeding now to a more detailed description of my invention, referencewill be had to the accompanying drawings which are too illustrative andnot limitative of my invention.

FIGURE 1 is a front elevation of a preferred embodiment of my brassiereas seen on the wearer;

FIGURE 2 is a slightly enlarged plan view of the center section of thebrassiere of FIGURE 1 when it is not on the wearer but in a relaxedcondition;

FIGURE 3 is a 17.5 enlargement of approximately a 3 mm. circular area ofthe triangular, mesh-like piece of fabric at the center of the brassiereof FIGURE 1, when it is not on the wearer but in a relaxed condition.

FIGURE 4 is a slightly enlarged plan view of the center section of thebrassiere of FIGURE 1 when it is on the body and under slight tension;

FIGURE 5 is a 17.5 enlargement of approximately a 3 mm. circular area ofthe triangular, mesh-like piece of fabric at the center of the brassiereof FIGURE 1 when it is on the body and under slight tension;

FIGURE 6 is a front elevation of a second embodiment of my brassiere asseen on the wearer; and

FIGURE 7 is a front elevation of a third embodiment of my brassiere asseen on the wearer.

It is to be understood that my brassiere may have any known or suitabledorsal band arrangement and shoulder straps; these are not the subjectof my invention, and as they are conventional they are merely indicatedhere.

Referring to the drawings, my brassiere has cups 10, 12 of a conical tohemispherical shape, each cup having an upper half 14, 16, a lower half18, 20, and a generally horizontal mid-seam 22, 24. The members makingup the cups are, as it usual, cut with convex edges that are pulled toeach other, overlapped, and sewn together to form the mid-seam, thusproviding outwardly peaked cups.

Extending from the top of the cups 10, 12 and along the upper-inneredges thereof are narrow tapes 26, 28. These tapes cross each other atmidpoint 42 and then extend along the lower-inner edges of the cups. Theupper ends of tapes 26, 28 are conventionally secured to shoulder strapbuckles 30, 32 and shoulder straps 31, 33.

Tapes 26, 28 have upper branches 34, 36, which are respectively securedto the upper-inner edge regions of the cups 10, 12 and lower branches38, 40 which are respectively secured to the lower-inner edge regions ofcups 10, 12. These tapes are preferably secured to each other at thecrossing or midpoint 42.

The upper branches 34, 36 of the tapes overlap-by about half theirwidth-the upper-inner edge region of the cups 10, 12, and are secured tothem by preferably a double line of stitching 44, 46. Each tape isslightly extended as it is sewn to its corresponding cup. This resultsin a finished product which at rest is slightly gathered along thatedge. It is thus capable of a small degree of stretch. The portion ofeach tape that extends past the edge of the cup more readily adaptsitself to the body in that region, and lies lightly but snugly againstthe skin.

Below the midpoint 42, the lower branches 38, 40 also overlap thelower-inner edge region of the cups 10, 12. These lower branches of thetapes 26, 28 are also secured to the cups 10, 12 by preferably a doubleline of stitching 44, 46, with the lower edge of the tapes being sewn tothe cups 10, 12.

The upper branches 34, 36 of the tapes 26, 28 extend freely out awayfrom the cups 10, 12, whereas the lower branches 38, 40 of the tapes 26,28 extend freely in over the cups 10, 12, The double line of stitching44, 46 also securely fastens the tapes to each other where they cross atthe midpoint 42.

Although tapes 26, 28 are inherently straight, the lower branches 38, 40are slightly bent inwardly when sewn to the shaped cups 10, 12, thusresulting in the lower branches 38, 40 being less divergent than theupper branches 34, 36. This relationship tends to be confirmed andenhanced when the brassiere is on the body.

At the lower center of the brassiere is a triangular piece of mesh-likefabric 48, which is also sewn to the lower branches 38, 40 of tapes 26,28 and to the lower-inner edges of the cups 10, 12. The triangularfabric 48 is made from a sheet of fabric that has a first group ofnonstretchable, spaced-apart fibre strands extending in one directionand a second group of nonstretchable, spaced-apart fibre strandsextending in a direction substantially perpendicular to the first groupof strands. This material may be fabricated by well-known weaving,knitting or other nonstretch fabric formation techniques.

It is an essential feature of my invention that the triangular piece offabric is fabricated so that the perpendicular groups of fibre strandsare each at an angle to the base of the triangle, preferably at aforty-five degree angle, or as is commonly referred to in the art, thetriangular piece of fabric is cut-on-the-bias. By this construction, mytriangular-shaped, otherwise nonstretchable piece of fabric isadvantageously stretchable in a direction parallel to its base.

Across the front of the brassiere and under the cups 10, 12 extends anunderbust band 50, which is preferably stretchable in the girthwisedirection. This band may be made of elastic material. It is secured tothe lower edges of the cups 10, 12, the lower branches 38, 40 and thetriangular fabric 48. Preferably, the top quarter inch or so of theunderbust band overlaps-and is sewn to--the cups, lower branches of thetapes and the triangular fabric.

In the center region of the underbust band 50, girthwise stretchabilityis preserved by virtue of the fact that it is sewn to the base of thetriangular fabric 48, which is oriented to provide girthwise stretch byzig-zag stitching. Girthwise stretchability at the outer regions of theunderbust band 50 is restrained since it is sewn to the lower edges ofthe cups 10, 12, which are virtually nonstretchable in the girthwisedirection. It is preferably, however, to preserve a slight amount ofgirthwise stretchability at the outer regions of the underbust band 50.This may be achieved by slightly extending the band as it is sewn withzig-zag stitching-to the cups, thus resulting in a finished productwhich is slightly gathered along the sewn edges. The underbust band 50is thus capable of a small degree of girthwise stretch in its outerregions.

It is well known in the brassiere art that the upperhalf of abrassiereabove the sternumtends to stay in its proper position on thebody while the lower-half of the brassiere is more inclined to move outof position, generally upward when the chest wall expands and downwardwhen it contracts. This action of a brassiere on the body is caused bythe fact that the chest cavity of a woman expands less above the sternumthan it does below the sternum. It is at the lower, front-center, justbelow the sternum that the chest cavity has its greatest degree ofexpansion. My brassiere has a unique capability of accommodating tochest cavity expansion at its lower, frontcenter section, yet it doesnot require additional costly stretch fabrics in this section of thebrassiere,

In the embodiment illustrated, the underbust band 50 is coterminous withthe outer edges of the cups 10, Hand both are joined to the dorsal bandmembers 52, 54 of any desired nature. When the underbust band isassembled into the composite front panel it is curved on a downwardlyconcave arc. Desirably, the lower edges of the dorsal band members 52,54 when the brassiere is laid out flat, continue this same downwardlyconcave arc; so that the dorsal bands will substantially lie straightacross the wearers back when the brassiere is on the body.

To more clearly set forth my invention, I include FIGURES 3 and 4 whichare respectively enlarged plan views of the lower, front-center sectionof my brassiere, when it is in a relaxed condition off the body, andwhen it is an expanded or stressed condition on the body.

In FIGURE 2, portions of the brassiere of FIGURE 1 are shown when thebrassiere is in a relaxed condition, the reference numerals being usedfor like parts. Note here that the group of spaced strands that runupwardly and to the right is substantially perpendicular to the group ofspaced strands that run upwardly and to the left. The two groups ofstrands form a plurality of substantially rectangular openings with eachgroup of strands oriented at an angle to the upper edge of the underbustband 50. Preferably these angles are forty-five degrees, although thirtyto sixty degrees is a permissive and acceptable range of angles.

In FIGURE 4, portions of the brassiere of FIGURE 1 are shown when thebrassiere is under girthwise stress or stretch, like reference numeralsbeing used for like parts. Note here that the group of spaced strandsthat run upwardly and to the right are no longer perpendicular to thegroup of strands that run upwardly and to the left. The two groups ofstrands now form a plurality of variably shaped openings ofparallelogram configuration, with each group of strands still orientedat an angle to the upper edge of the underbust band 50. The upper andlower angles of the parallelograms vary from about 90 degrees to about110 degrees under varying degrees of stress, while the left and rightangles of the parallelograms vary from about 90 degrees to aboutdegrees.

Note at this point that the base length of the triangular fabric 48,shown as length X between center-lines aa and b-b, of the at-restbrassiere of FIGURE 2, enlarges or bias-stretches to a larger baselength, as shown as length Y between center-lines aa' and bb of FIG- URE4. This bias-stretch capability is possible because of the orientationof the groups of strands of the triangular fabric 48 with respect to theupper edge of the underbust band 50, i.e., it is cut on-the-bias, andbecause the underbust band is at least stretchable in its central regionbetween the cups.

To even more clearly define my invention, I also include a 17.5enlargement of one rectangle of FIGURE 2 and one parallelogram of FIGURE4, which are respectively FIGURES 3 and 5 In FIGURE 3, the enlargedrectangle has sides 60, 62, 64, and 66, upper angle 61 and side angle63. Angles 61, 63 are each approximately degrees while the sides areapproximately equal in length. In FIGURE 5, however, the enlargedparallelograma rectangle under girthwise stress-has sides 60, 62, 64,and 66', still approximately equal in length, but the upper angle 61' islarger than upper angle 61 and the side angle 63 is smaller than theside angle 63. It is the capability of the rectangles of the triangularfabric 48 to change into parallelograms that permits bias-stretch in thegirthwise direction when the brassiere is subjected to girthwisestretch. To say it otherwise, the interstices between the spaced strandsof the triangular fabric 48 cant when subjected to girthwise stress,thus imparting an accumulative elongation of the triangular fabric inthe girthwise direction. Such elongation capability is advantageouslyutilized to allow the brassiere to accommodate to chest cavityexpansions,

particularly in the lower, front-center region of the brassiere.

A first alternate embodiment of my invention is shown in FIGURE 6. Cups10, 12, shoulder strap buckles 30, 32, shoulder straps 31, 33,triangular fabric 48, underbust band 50 and dorsal bands 52, 54 aresubstantially identical to corresponding elements above described. Tapes26', 28 are different from the above described tapes 26, 28 in that tape26' extends from the top of cup 10, along-and secured to--theupper-inner edge of cup and then along and secured to the lower-inneredge of cup 10. Tape 28 is similarly secured to cup 12 in that itextends from the top thereof, along the upper-inner edge, then along thelower-inner edge, and secured thereto. Upper branches 34, 36' above themid-point 42, and lower branches 38', 40' below it are thereforeprovided. At the mid-point 42 where the tapes 26, 28 vertically abut,they may be secured together, for example, by vertically extendingladder stitches (not shown).

Tapes 26', 28 overlap the inner edge region of their respective cup andare secured there by two spaced rows of stitches 44, 46. Preferablythese tapes are substantially non-stretchable, although lengthwisestretchable tapes may be used.

A second alternate embodiment of my invention is shown in FIGURE 7 inwhich the cups, shoulder strap buckles, shoulder straps, triangularfabric, underbust band and dorsal bands are substantially identical tocorresponding elements above described.

The tapes 2-6", 28" are different from the abovedescribed tapes 26, 28in that tape 26" extends from the top of cup 10, along and secured tothe upper-inner edge of cup 10, across the mid-point 42, then along theupper-inner edge of cup 12, terminating at the top thereof. Tape 28"extends from the underbust band 50, along and secured to the lower-inneredge of cup 10, across the mid-point 42, then along the lower-inner edgeof cup 12, terminating at the underbust band 50. Upper branches 34", 36"above the mid-point 42, and lower branches 38", 40 below it areprovided. At the mid-point 42 where the tapes 26", 28" abut, they may besecured together, for example, by ladder stitches (not shown) or theymay overlap and be secured by conventional stitches.

Tape 26" overlaps by about half its width, the upperinner edge region ofthe cups 10, 12 and is secured to them by preferably a double line ofstitching 44" in a manner similar to that above described with regard totapes 26, 28 of FIGURE 1. Tape 28" overlaps the lowerinner edge regionof the cups 10, 12 and is secured there by two spaced rows of stitches46".

Preferably tape 26" is lengthwise stretchable while tape 28" issubstantially non-stretchable.

It will be appreciated that since the cups, tapes, triangular fabric andunderbust band accommodate to and follow the natural expansion of thechest cavity, yet simply abut the body, the brassiere as an entity moveswith the chest cavity during normal body motions and returns to verynearly its proper position on the body after excessive body movements,thus providing a highly satisfactory combination of brassiereadaptability and restoration.

I claim:

1. Brassiere in which:

(a) two cups are provided; and

(b) a continuous unitary stretchable underbust band of essentiallyuniform width throughout its length extends across under the cups and issecured to the bottom edges of the cups; and

i (c) a pair of tapes are secured to the inner edges of the cups, saidtapes forming upper branches above the center of the brassiere and lowerbranches below it with the bottom ends of said lower branches extendingdown to the underbust band and being secured there; and

(d) an essentially uniform, triangular-shaped, piece of substantiallynon-stretch, mesh-like fabric is positioned on the bias with respect tothe horizontal edge of said underbust band in the space between thelower branches of said tapes and said underbust band, with the threeedges of said fabric being respectively secured to the inner edges ofthe lower branches of said tapes and the upper edge of said underbustband;

(e) whereby girthwise stretching of said underbust band during useproduces a bias stretch within said fabric in the girthwise direction,which in cooperation with the girthwise-stretch in the underbust band,permits said brassiere to accommodate the expansion and contraction ofthe chest cavity and to maintain its proper position on the body duringuse.

2. Brassiere in which:

(a) two cups are provided; and

(b) a continuous unitary stretchable underbust band of essentiallyuniform width throughout its length extends across under the cups and issecured to the bottom edges of the cups; and

(c) a pair of tapes are secured to the inner edges of the cups, saidtapes forming upper branches above the center of the brassiere and lowerbranches below it with the bottom ends of said lower branches extendingdown to the underbust band and being secured there; and

(d) an essentially uniform, triangular-shaped, piece of fabric ispositioned in the space between the lower branches of said tapes andsaid underbust band, with the three edges of said triangular piece offabric being respectively secured to the inner edges of the lowerbranches of said tapes and the upper edge of said underbust band; and

(c) said triangular piece of fabric has a first group of spaced strandsgenerally extending in one direction and a second group of spacedstrands generally extending in a direction transverse to said onedirection; and

(f) said triangular piece of fabric is secured to said lower branchesand said underbust band so that each group of strands are at an angle tothe horizontal edge of said underbust band; and

(g) whereby girthwise stretching of said underbust band during useproduces a bias stretch within said fabric in the girthwise direction,which in cooperation with the girthwise stretch in the underbust band,permits said brassiere to accommodate to expansion and contraction ofthe chest cavity and to maintain its proper position on the body duringuse.

3. In a brassiere of the type having a front section with a dorsal bandarrangement and shoulder straps each respectively secured thereto forpermittin brassiere accommodation to chest cavity expansion andcontraction and for providing desirable breast separation, said frontsection comprising:

(a) two cups, y

(b) an underbust band extending across under the cups and being securedto the bottom edges of the cups, the underbust band having at least aportion thereof of substantially continuous unitary stretchability whichis essentially of uniform construction and width throughout its length;

(c) a pair of tapes secured to the inner edges of the cups and securedto each other, said tapes defining upper diverging branches above theirpoint of securement and lower diverging branches below it;

(d) an essentially uniform substantially triangular insert, which isstretchable at least in a girthwise direction, positioned in the spacebetween the lower branches of the tapes and the underbust band with thethree edges of said triangular insert being respectively secured to theinner edges of the lower branches of the tapes and the upper edge of theun- 7 derbust band, the bottom ends of said lower branches extendingdown to the underbust band and being secured thereto near the lowerapices of the triangular insert intermediate the center and terminalportions of the underbust band.

(e) whereby girthwise stretching of said nnderbust band during useproduces a bias stretch within said insert in the girthwise direction,which in cooperation with the girthwise stretch in the underbust band,permits said brassiere to accommodate to expansion and contraction ofthe chest cavity and to maintain its proper position on the body duringuse; and

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 5/1968 Sachs 138483 ADELE M.EAGER, Primary Examiner Disclaimer 3, 78,7l7.-Charles M. Sachs, Teaneck,NJ. BRASSIERE. Patent dated Nov.

18, 1969. Disclaimer filed Dec. 29, 1969, by the assignee, InternationalPlaytex Corpomtion.

Hereby disclaims the termin quent to May 30, 1984.

[Ofiicz'al Gazette March 31, 1970.]

al portion of the term of said patent subse-

